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General Fat Chance Discussion Anything and everything about the best mountain bikes ever made. |
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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 25th, 2013
Location: UK
Posts: 131
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Hi,
What purpose does the tag serve on the back of the seatpost (the one that the seat bolt runs though) ? Cheers, WD ![]() |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 7th, 2007
Location: Hudson, MA
Posts: 425
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The seat tab keeps the clamp facing the right way and helps to retain it if it comes loose. Welded so so so many of those. Still see them in my sleep!!
Regards Scott |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 25th, 2013
Location: UK
Posts: 131
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Hi,
Thanks for the response ![]() That’s cool that you are on the forum, you might have even welded mine ! (92 Yo) ![]() As you worked there I have another question that has been puzzling me and I hope you can help ! At what point were the tubes ‘sealed’ Did they have a vent in them that was sealed before painting (if so with what ?) or did they not have a vent in to start with ? Thanks again for any help / guidance ![]() Cheers, WD ![]() |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 7th, 2007
Location: Hudson, MA
Posts: 425
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Hello WD
It is virtually certain that I welded your seat tab, pizootie tab (the little seat stay gusset plate) small bridge tubes, brake cable bridge, brake mounts, and rear dropouts. I welded nearly all of them for the Yo's made in Somerville. I welded quite a few of the Yo main triangles and most of the Fat titaniums and road frames. I did not weld many of the forks however We did not use vent holes in the tubes. On a rare occasion a weld would pop as I went to seal it since the heat would build air pressure in the tube. Most of the time I would weld almost all the way around, let it cool completely and then go back and weld the last little part to finish it. I would always do that in an area that could be easily fixed if it did pop. If I did have to use a vent hole (more common on repairs), I would drill a 1mm hole somewhere around the middle of the tube and usually toward the inside or bottom depending on which tube it was, finish the repair or weld whatever the operation was and then I would use a quick silver braze to seal the hole and then sand it smooth so it would not show. I was perhaps the only American Welding Society Certified Welding Inspector and degreed welding engineer who worked welding bike frames in those days. There could have been others working at the big guys like Trek or Cannondale but I never knew of any personally Thanks for your interest! Scott |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 25th, 2013
Location: UK
Posts: 131
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Hi Scott,
Once again, thanks for the (awesome) info ! ![]() It has given me another question though … What about the brazed items ? As the down tube bottle bosses are sealed, at what stage did they get fitted ? and the same question would apply to the cable stops i.e. were they fitted before or after the welding ? One of the reasons for asking is because my frame doesn’t have the anti chain suck mounts and I would like to add them. I was asking about the tag as sadly, my frame isn’t original and this item is missing ![]() ![]() I may regret asking this one but here goes … I am considering converting the frame to disk (I don’t have the OE fork) as in all honesty, I will use it more in this format. As you were one of the original employees and involved in its original manufacture, what are your thoughts on this with regards ‘keeping it original’ (and hanging it on a wall ![]() ![]() Please note that I am not one for doing a quick bodge, detail is very important to me The mods will be done well with a few ‘twists’ to personalise it. Paint and anodising will be in retro colours, the graphics will be retro reproductions and most of the components will be retro – other than the disk setup, but the anodising on those bits will be done retro colours to ![]() Your comments (good or bad ! ) would be appreciated. Cheers ![]() WD ![]() |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 15th, 2010
Location: Naperville IL
Posts: 716
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Build it and ride it before you sock all that money in it...a 92 is going to have an old school lower profile and might be a back wrencher.
make sure you are in love with the ride -- and not just the idea of telling your friends you have a YO eddy. I would say, don't sweat the tab on the seat tube...(but if you put one on, a new thomson clamp works - as it is offset) Also, look for another YO they are fairly easy to find, a rust bucket will only give you heartbreak when another tube rusts out and you have so much work into it... if you do like the ride and you have an all original bike, I would not modify, as it will not have the resale value... there are several threads on the site with people that have added disc tabs... Finally if you want to do that - i would hold out and find a 98 or newer YO which has a more modern geometry and will facilitate a 1 1/8th fork with a disc tab. I have a 99/00 YO which has a disc tab (albeit a weird lower stay one). It has a 1 1/8 fork. I know i'm no I ROBOT but believe me, I have gone thru all the processes you are thinking here... good luck Jim |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 25th, 2013
Location: UK
Posts: 131
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Hi Jim,
Thanks for your input, it's all appreciated ![]() I am leaning towards omitting the post tag - one less thing to get scratched or chipped etc With regards corrosion, the rest of the frame looks good with no obvious issues. As the tubes are sealed I guess it's only a problem if you can see it externally ? The seat tube bring the exception as that isn't sealed due to seat post etc ... ? I defo won't be getting a second yo, the GF doesn't even know I have this one, yet ... ![]() ![]() I don't think any of my circle of friends know what a yo is - they just think I am some crazy dude who messes with old bikes ![]() WD ![]() |
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 16th, 2007
Location: Durango, CO USA
Posts: 167
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![]() Quote:
There's a ton of sound advice in here. As a former owner of a disc-addition Yo, I'll echo what Jim says by riding it first. |
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