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Builder's Corner Restoration and preservation. Keep them running in perfect shape. What size is your bottom bracket?

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Old November 20th, 2012, 4:16 PM   #1
mattb
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Default Accu-Trax on a Yo

So, I'm not having any luck on the Yo fork search. I figured I'd give the Accu-trax a try. What do you think? I like the look personally but I'm going to need to ride it before I make up my mind. I almost convinced myself to go Mag-21 which I have but need a 1" threaded fork crown to fit a med. Yo. Anyway...
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Old November 20th, 2012, 5:31 PM   #2
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Default fork

what length is the head tube on your frame and is it a medium or small medium
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Old November 20th, 2012, 6:26 PM   #3
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Its a hair short of 4"

it's a med.

as long as I'm reading the serial # correctly it's 137Y2M.
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Old November 20th, 2012, 7:17 PM   #4
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Looks like a chopper without the headset!
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Old November 20th, 2012, 8:06 PM   #5
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Looks like a chopper without the headset!
Yeah it does!
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Old November 21st, 2012, 11:46 PM   #6
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That looks familiar...
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Old November 22nd, 2012, 8:46 AM   #7
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Default What the Fork?

Well, I think you have to have patience and a pocketbook to get a real YO fork, they show up on forums and ebay

you have to consider the year of your YO and suspension vs non suspension

I went thru lotsa' searches, and tried a lot of forks...

as posted in my most recent post, a suspension corrected 92 or newer YO does okay with a Kona Project 2 fork 410mm AtoC by 38mm offset available at Bikeman. As the frames evolved, I think they ended up being closer to a 420mm AtoC from 97 on...

other than that, I have tried a 400mm Tange fork on a 90 YO and it worked okay. I think the AtoC is really 390mm on that bike with a rake of 1.5 inches

the Tange fork worked better on a wicked, as I think the rake matched better.

There are several hundred posts on here that talk about the various try/fail attempts to match non FC forks to YO's and Wickeds...

I waited for 2 years to get my first YO fork. I had to pay out the backside but it finally matches my medium Grello YO. ($357 bucks on Ebay)

Looking at this all in perspective, I think it is far smarter to get one made from Igleheart (about $450 bucks). He was the man back at the factory, and he still makes them today out of better heat treated materials. I would have gotten it quicker, and I would have enjoyed my YO sooner.

I also know that there are several custom made forks avail out there including a nifty one that Teesdale makes for about 100 bucks less than an Igleheart.

As I stated earlier, patience is a virtue, but for me the gnawing and wanting a real fork made my FC's restorations incomplete.

They really do ride magically when properly matched. Maybe it's all in my head.

Bottom line is that you have to pounce when they show up on FLEABAY, and be prepared to pay.

The recent DC sale on the forum for a YO with a Fork was the deal of the year...

My point is that you have to check everyday, and hope that something comes to light.

Happy Thanksgiving!
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Old November 22nd, 2012, 10:03 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by chefmiguel View Post
That looks familiar...
I swapped a 73 Paramount tandem project I had to get it back!
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Old November 22nd, 2012, 10:07 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvcreative View Post
Well, I think you have to have patience and a pocketbook to get a real YO fork, they show up on forums and ebay

you have to consider the year of your YO and suspension vs non suspension

I went thru lotsa' searches, and tried a lot of forks...

as posted in my most recent post, a suspension corrected 92 or newer YO does okay with a Kona Project 2 fork 410mm AtoC by 38mm offset available at Bikeman. As the frames evolved, I think they ended up being closer to a 420mm AtoC from 97 on...

other than that, I have tried a 400mm Tange fork on a 90 YO and it worked okay. I think the AtoC is really 390mm on that bike with a rake of 1.5 inches

the Tange fork worked better on a wicked, as I think the rake matched better.

There are several hundred posts on here that talk about the various try/fail attempts to match non FC forks to YO's and Wickeds...

I waited for 2 years to get my first YO fork. I had to pay out the backside but it finally matches my medium Grello YO. ($357 bucks on Ebay)

Looking at this all in perspective, I think it is far smarter to get one made from Igleheart (about $450 bucks). He was the man back at the factory, and he still makes them today out of better heat treated materials. I would have gotten it quicker, and I would have enjoyed my YO sooner.

I also know that there are several custom made forks avail out there including a nifty one that Teesdale makes for about 100 bucks less than an Igleheart.

As I stated earlier, patience is a virtue, but for me the gnawing and wanting a real fork made my FC's restorations incomplete.

They really do ride magically when properly matched. Maybe it's all in my head.

Bottom line is that you have to pounce when they show up on FLEABAY, and be prepared to pay.

The recent DC sale on the forum for a YO with a Fork was the deal of the year...

My point is that you have to check everyday, and hope that something comes to light.

Happy Thanksgiving!
Thanks for the info, I'm going to wait for a real non suspension corrected Yo fork for it. In the mean time I'm going to go with a Mag 21. I will try the Accu-Trax though.

Happy Thanksgiving to you & everyone else here!
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Old November 22nd, 2012, 11:32 AM   #10
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The other rule of thumb i would use on rigid fork length is that you want the Bottom Bracket Height to be roughly 11 7/8ths inches with 2.125 tires.

I could be wrong...but.

One other thing to remember - is that with a suspension, the BB height will be higher...

I would subtract .5 to .75 inches for sag to arrive at that 11 7/8ths number.

anybody else out there know something different?
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Old November 23rd, 2012, 2:19 PM   #11
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Try your Accu-Trax once and only once traveling with your Yo few kilometers. I drive this combination on a Wicked, a Buck Shaver and also on a Yo. I find the Accu-Trax travels more stable and have more directional stability as a Big One Inch or a Yo Eddy fork. Not to mention the better stability of it.

But no doubt the first choice on a Yo Eddy should always be an original Yo Eddy fork. Perhaps a Igleheart.

Greeting Helmut
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Old November 23rd, 2012, 2:58 PM   #12
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what's the fattest tire you can run on it? Oversized frames like the YO beg for big, fat tires. As long as the rake is teh same, you are very close to the original Yo fork, except for tire clearance.
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Old November 23rd, 2012, 8:46 PM   #13
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I always think of those old Yeti products as being kind of blunt instruments. Big ol' hunks of 4130 brute-force that will be around with the cockroaches, but lacking a little in the refinement department - something FCC made its stock and trade.

My vote would be to keep the fork for a Yeti project, or sell it to help finance an Igleheart.
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Old November 24th, 2012, 3:07 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainlyfats View Post
........or sell it to help finance an Igleheart.
Thats a good idea!!
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Old November 24th, 2012, 8:00 AM   #15
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I'll stop in pick up the Accu fork tomorrow!
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Old November 24th, 2012, 2:49 PM   #16
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Quote:
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I'll stop in pick up the Accu fork tomorrow!
Do you have a yo' fork? If so I've got lots of good stuff you can have!
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Old November 25th, 2012, 11:49 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattb View Post
So, I'm not having any luck on the Yo fork search. I figured I'd give the Accu-trax a try. What do you think? I like the look personally but I'm going to need to ride it before I make up my mind. I almost convinced myself to go Mag-21 which I have but need a 1" threaded fork crown to fit a med. Yo. Anyway...
well based on pictures it might be a sc yo, in this case I would go with mag 21.
In the chance family the Accu-trax would fit just maybe at a Buck Shaver.
So the mag 21 is the first choice ...I also had one

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Old November 25th, 2012, 1:21 PM   #18
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i wonder why IF's rigid forks were always unicrown and never segmented.
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Old November 25th, 2012, 1:34 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colker View Post
i wonder why IF's rigid forks were always unicrown and never segmented.
This is a wild guess, but Steve Elms told me back in the day the reason for some of the detail differences between the original (95, 96) Deluxe and the Yo was because the IF boys didn't want to appear to be producing Yo knockoffs. So a) may have had something to do with that, and b) probably much less labor intensive to build uni than segmented.
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Old November 25th, 2012, 1:50 PM   #20
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This is a wild guess, but Steve Elms told me back in the day the reason for some of the detail differences between the original (95, 96) Deluxe and the Yo was because the IF boys didn't want to appear to be producing Yo knockoffs. So a) may have had something to do with that, and b) probably much less labor intensive to build uni than segmented.
Early Deluxes had a smaller diameter top tube, much like a BUck.. as far as i can tell from pics.
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Old November 25th, 2012, 2:18 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colker View Post
Early Deluxes had a smaller diameter top tube, much like a BUck.. as far as i can tell from pics.
I don't recall, and I don't have either one anymore to measure. In any case, Elms, who was one of the founders of IF stated they didn't want to come off as simply knocking off Fat, hence the tweaks. It was a typical comment back in the day that the Deluxe was a copy of the Yo and they IF boys were sensitive to that.
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Old November 25th, 2012, 3:04 PM   #22
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well based on pictures it might be a sc yo, in this case I would go with mag 21.
In the chance family the Accu-trax would fit just maybe at a Buck Shaver.
So the mag 21 is the first choice ...I also had one

It's a 92' I didn't think the did sc in 92'. The headtube measures 3 7/8" so I need a longer steerer tube than I've been finding. Nice bike by the way.
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