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Old May 11th, 2011, 10:39 AM   #1
jonsonneborn
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Default Bought another Yo Eddy yesterday and need help identifying the year

Serial Number is YoML2484

I know that it's a Saratoga Built Medium/Large and it has a 1 1/8th head tube & threaded bottom bracket. No disc tabs. Also the cable routing is corrected for V-brakes.

Also looking for some advice on removal of the frozen thompson seatpost.

Cheers,
Jon





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Old May 11th, 2011, 12:33 PM   #2
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Default Will you repaint

Will you end up repainting?

if so, heat it up with a torch - this will get it out toot sweet

otherwise, plenty of oil and elbow grease is the only way I know.

looks like a nice project, FYI there may be other ways on the SP
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Old May 11th, 2011, 1:51 PM   #3
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No idea on dating your NY Yo but check out Sheldon Brown"s page for your seatpost:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

and as Master Po told Kwai Chang Caine, "patience young Grasshopper".......
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Old May 11th, 2011, 3:37 PM   #4
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Pretty sure that's a 1998. My 98 has a similar placing of the 8 in the SN. I also just removed a stuck Thomson from mine. Removed BB, poured coke in the seattube and let it hang over night. Then clamped the head in a vice and turned the frame like hell. Took some real effort too.
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Old May 11th, 2011, 5:07 PM   #5
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2 journeyman plumbers, 2-24" pipe wrenches, and a boy (me holding the frame), got my post unstuck recently. Only after I dislocated a rip.
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Old May 11th, 2011, 9:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fat-tony View Post
No idea on dating your NY Yo but check out Sheldon Brown"s page for your seatpost:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html
I am loving sheldonbrown's seatpost forum. Still haven't gotten it out but am going to buy some drano and give it a shot! Thanks for the link! Jon
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Old May 11th, 2011, 9:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ameybrook View Post
Pretty sure that's a 1998. My 98 has a similar placing of the 8 in the SN. I also just removed a stuck Thomson from mine. Removed BB, poured coke in the seattube and let it hang over night. Then clamped the head in a vice and turned the frame like hell. Took some real effort too.
I was guessing about a '98 based upon the vintage of Deore XT Group that is on the bike. I wonder if the Coke breaks up the alluminum oxide like drano is supposed to?
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Old May 12th, 2011, 6:14 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonsonneborn View Post
I am loving sheldonbrown's seatpost forum. Still haven't gotten it out but am going to buy some drano and give it a shot! Thanks for the link! Jon
Let it soak in penetrating oil for days.
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Old May 13th, 2011, 11:14 AM   #9
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Quote:
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Let it soak in penetrating oil for days.
I am still trying to figure out how to seal the thomson seat post so it will hold liquid while upside-down. I tried jerry-rigging a plastic plug with some cut up rubber tube but the sharp edges of the thomson keep cutting through the tube and causing leaks.

Do you think the penetrating oil will work with an alluminum post in a steel frame?

Thanks,
Jon
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Old May 13th, 2011, 4:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonsonneborn View Post
I am still trying to figure out how to seal the thomson seat post so it will hold liquid while upside-down. I tried jerry-rigging a plastic plug with some cut up rubber tube but the sharp edges of the thomson keep cutting through the tube and causing leaks.

Do you think the penetrating oil will work with an alluminum post in a steel frame?

Thanks,
Jon
Sorry, I didn't realize that your seatpost was aluminum, so the oil is not really going to do anything to the oxidation that has probably occured.
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Old May 15th, 2011, 1:12 PM   #11
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Default Got the Post Out!!!

Quote:
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Sorry, I didn't realize that your seatpost was aluminum, so the oil is not really going to do anything to the oxidation that has probably occured.
This Seatpost was a nightmare! I tried pouring Amonia, & then Coke, & then Drano down the seat tube & the thing would not budge. Finally I decided I was not going to salvage the post so I put it in my vise and twisted the frame. The post broke in half leaving approximately 200mm in the frame with only about 1/2" sticking out. I bought some new 12" hack saw blades and a special hacksaw which only holds the blade from one end and carefully sawed the remainder of the post lengthwise; careful to put more torque on the far-end of the post. After 90 minutes of sawing I got it to move!



Next I need to figure out how to clean out and treat the seat tube to prevent any further rust or isssues. Cheers, Jon
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Old May 15th, 2011, 5:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonsonneborn View Post
This Seatpost was a nightmare! I tried pouring Amonia, & then Coke, & then Drano down the seat tube & the thing would not budge. Finally I decided I was not going to salvage the post so I put it in my vise and twisted the frame. The post broke in half leaving approximately 200mm in the frame with only about 1/2" sticking out. I bought some new 12" hack saw blades and a special hacksaw which only holds the blade from one end and carefully sawed the remainder of the post lengthwise; careful to put more torque on the far-end of the post. After 90 minutes of sawing I got it to move!



Next I need to figure out how to clean out and treat the seat tube to prevent any further rust or isssues. Cheers, Jon
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Jon, take the frame to a facility that does sand blasting / glass bead blasting, have them use glass bead and blast down the seat post tube. The tube will be very clean inside and the glass bead will not erode your metal tube. As for post cleaning I would recommend a wax type rust inhibitor
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Old May 15th, 2011, 8:00 PM   #13
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[QUOTE=zack;14876][FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Jon, take the frame to a facility that does sand blasting / glass bead blasting, have them use glass bead and blast down the seat post tube. The tube will be very clean inside and the glass bead will not erode your metal tube. As for post cleaning I would recommend a wax type rust inhibitor
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Old May 15th, 2011, 8:05 PM   #14
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I bought a brake cylinder hone that mounts on drill motor and ran into the seat tube slowly to remove the rust. If its wet inside I'd leave the frame upside down to drain out the fluids completely. Or blow dry it out. Then treat the seat tube with "frame saver".

It looks something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-10000-Br.../dp/B0002SQUG8
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Old May 15th, 2011, 10:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rthomer View Post
I bought a brake cylinder hone that mounts on drill motor and ran into the seat tube slowly to remove the rust. If its wet inside I'd leave the frame upside down to drain out the fluids completely. Or blow dry it out. Then treat the seat tube with "frame saver".

It looks something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-10000-Br.../dp/B0002SQUG8

That's a great idea. I noticed in the seat tube there are protrusions from the water bottle braze-ons. I assume I need to be very careful around these?
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