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Old May 8th, 2008, 6:05 PM   #1
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Default applying origional fat ti decals?

Ive just bought a new set of decals for my ti chance they look like maybe waterslide decals or are they heat activated? they are original fat chance decals not repros. they cost a lot and i can see this going horribly wrong!! also how to remove the old ones would be helpful!
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Old May 8th, 2008, 8:58 PM   #2
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This sounds like a question for Rody. Maybe he can chime in or you can send him a PM.
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Old May 9th, 2008, 7:37 AM   #3
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If there not already repros, why not making repros of them??

The original must already be 10+ years old by now. Do not know whether that has an effect on their functioning, but I could imagine it has. Moreover when you have repros you can put new ones on everytime you want.
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Old May 9th, 2008, 9:23 AM   #4
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Hey guy,

If they are truly originals from sss, then you've got one shot to get these right, so let's be careful

First off, prepare yourself. Put on some lint free clothing and use tight fitting latex gloves on your hands to protect the base surface from oil contamination. Clean the frame well with Acetone or MEK, both quick evaporating solvents to insure that the surface is free from all contaminants.

Next up, these decals are over 12 years old and are extremely fragile so proceed with confidence and caution

The decal will have three parts, a back layer that is made of firmer card stock, a transfer sheet on top of thinner clear material, and the actual decal sandwiched in between.

Remove the back layer (which may have already fallen free) to expose the rear of the decal and transfer sheet. This will not feel too tacky, but you must keep it clean. Gripping the decal from the lateral edges on both ends, gently place the decal on the frame and run your gloved finger across the middle laterally to set the center of the decal in place (the top and bottom edges will not be touching the round tube). Begin from the center of the decal and smooth down to the tube moving in one direction at a time. I use both thumbs and smooth the top of the decal to the tube then the bottom. Once the decal is flush on the tubing, use a blunt smooth object (I like to use a round derlin rod) and "debase" the decal by slowly rubbing it uniformily over the entire surface area. Be very careful here, as if you pull the transfer sheet the decal will wrest free and leave nothing but fragmentation in it's wake. Continue to debase for about 90 seconds until you have uniform coverage.

Beginning at one lateral edge, pull the transfer sheet 180 degrees back over it's self SLOWLY. DO NOT PULL STRAIGHT UP.

Take care to watch all edges of the decal as you remove the transfer sheet to insure they are coming free. If they begin to lift or tear, you have not debased that area sufficiently, lay the sheet back down and rub some more.

Continue to repeat until you have a rebadged masterpiece

FWIW, only the early Fat decals were waterslide. After about 88, the dry transfer decals made by SSS were prevelant.

Good luck,

check it out... www.groovycycleworks.com and www.groovycycleworks.blogspot.com !
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Old May 9th, 2008, 5:39 PM   #5
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heres a few pics of the decals, like i said the transfers are face down on the card which is not adhesive which is going to make it damn hard to position them!

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Old June 7th, 2010, 11:02 AM   #6
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Default Ti Fat decals

Does anyone know where I can get the Red Titanium Fact Chance decals?
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Old June 7th, 2010, 3:26 PM   #7
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The old decals are quite hard to remove. I ended up using acetone, which worked great. Just make sure that you put enough on and repeat the cleaning process so that it is nice and clean before you start applying the decals.

I used the same instructions as Rody provided and it worked for me. Just make sure that you rub the decals before you start peeling off the top layer. I was really surprised how long and hard I had to rub. Be very careful when you pull off the top layer, at a couple of places my decals started to tear but I then put it gently back in place and rubbed the surface as a mad man. The top layer then peeled off and you can't see any crack in the decal.

You can see my result here.
Current bikes:
'91 M Yo | '91 S Monster | '93 S/M Yo | '93 Buck Shaver | '94 M Ti | '94 S/M Yo, rust in seat tube. Saved by C. igleheart | '97 S/M Bro Eddy | '97 Klein Quantum Pro | '97 Klein Quantum Pro, Jade Chamelion |

Previous bikes:
'92 M Yo Team Violet, stolen in '95 never recovered | '92 M Yo, rust in seat and down tube, not possible to save | '93 Klein Attitude Moonrise, stolen in '95 never recovered | '98 Trek 9900 OCLV, sold
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