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Old June 15th, 2007, 1:06 AM   #1
ThylacineCycles
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Default Anti-chainsuck 'toothpicks'

As Winter approaches here Down-Undah, my racing monkeys have started chirping "And I got wicked chainsuck, and then fell off, and got mud in my eye, and and and and....."

So the burinng question is......do the anti-chainsuck tooth-pick thingies found on the Y-Eddys actually work?

I'm seriously thinking of adding something similar to our race bikes, especially considering how thin chainstays are these days in that area.

What's the verdict?
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Old June 16th, 2007, 5:31 AM   #2
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What, 20 views and no opinions?

Anyone actually ride their Fats, or does everyone just sit in the shed fondling them?
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Old June 16th, 2007, 9:22 AM   #3
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since you have a bad attitude i say do whatever you want w/ your race frames cause i couldn't care less.
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Old June 16th, 2007, 2:28 PM   #4
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Default Ebay.co.uk anti chainsuck devices BUY IT NOW

Try looking on EBAY.CO.UK there is a seller in the U.K. selling some quite rare Chainsuck plates in new condition. He as a BUY IT NOW on them.. Buy the lot i say!!! You dont realise how much these things actually work until ya have agood look at em after a few rides... I have had a few chainsuck issues with certain bikes and plates do work...Also if your race frames are alloy chainsuck plates are a cheap insurance policy...
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Old June 17th, 2007, 1:07 AM   #5
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Try looking on EBAY.CO.UK there is a seller in the U.K. selling some quite rare Chainsuck plates in new condition. He as a BUY IT NOW on them.. Buy the lot i say!!! You dont realise how much these things actually work until ya have agood look at em after a few rides... I have had a few chainsuck issues with certain bikes and plates do work...Also if your race frames are alloy chainsuck plates are a cheap insurance policy...
Thanks Joe!

I was actually going to laser cut some of my own, so I'm doing some research, finding what works and what doesn't, what shapes work and what doesn't, etc.

Been looking at the Bontrager, Ringle and Fat versions and trying to come up with something that's a good balance or form and function, was well as being simple to implement.

With the Fat ones, do you place the face of the toothpicks in front of the chainring teeth, or to the side?
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Old June 17th, 2007, 6:42 AM   #6
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Default Toothpicks

Hello, not sure how the FAT CITY toothpicks work but to be honest they dont look very substantial or effective...If your race bikes are using the same chainset ratio i would cut out of alloy one size fits all plates that can be bolted on firmly...RINGLE ANTI CHAINSUCK plates work really well..these i have experience with...once you set them up as close to the chainrings as possible they didnt budge a mm. Good luck matey...I do hope my ramblings have offered a bit of an insight.
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Old June 17th, 2007, 1:40 PM   #7
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I never had chain suck issues with my Yo. Probably because I use very good rings

Theoretically if you decide for anti chain suck bits, I can image the connection should be sturdy, there should be minimal leverage, adjustabilty should be okay and the construction should be as light as possible. To me it looks like that the FAT toothpicks qualify pretty well on all requirements. But this is only a theoretical approach.
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Old June 17th, 2007, 1:41 PM   #8
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Warwick,

simple laser or water jet cut plates work well when mated to silvered 5mm female allen bolt bosses...designed to run parallel to the chainring on inside edge.

Best to incorporate fore/aft adjustment to compensate for different sized rings.

As for the toothpicks...they held up as well as the namesake. Plan on 3-5mm thick 308 stainless for any longevity at all.

Welcome to the forum...

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Old June 17th, 2007, 8:38 PM   #9
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Warwick,

simple laser or water jet cut plates work well when mated to silvered 5mm female allen bolt bosses...designed to run parallel to the chainring on inside edge.

Best to incorporate fore/aft adjustment to compensate for different sized rings.

As for the toothpicks...they held up as well as the namesake. Plan on 3-5mm thick 308 stainless for any longevity at all.

Welcome to the forum...

rody
Cheers Rody.

Yeah, I need to start looking at something. My race guys are experiencing it quite a bit this Winter (predominantly XT cranks and rings) and with chainstays as thin as .7mm....well.....I don't want to be known for selling fair-weather disposable bikes.

Time to hit the drawing board.....
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Old June 18th, 2007, 9:57 AM   #10
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I have the original directions and diagram instructions that I can scan and email you if you are interested. Let me know if you need that as a start.
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Old June 21st, 2007, 3:48 PM   #11
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If I were building frames I would be tempted to just do a (brazed on) stainless wrap around plate on the chainstay like I have seen on anvils and vanillas in the past.

The ringle ones work good. The fat ones work good if they are adjusted properly. Neither is worth a damn if you accidentally backpedal a stuck chain and it sucks in from the top of the stay.
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Old June 22nd, 2007, 5:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
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If I were building frames I would be tempted to just do a (brazed on) stainless wrap around plate on the chainstay like I have seen on anvils and vanillas in the past.

The ringle ones work good. The fat ones work good if they are adjusted properly. Neither is worth a damn if you accidentally backpedal a stuck chain and it sucks in from the top of the stay.
Can't say in the 20 years of mountainbiking I've done that's ever happened to me.
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Old June 22nd, 2007, 8:13 AM   #13
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I have to be honest I never really got on with the tooth picks, yes they prevented chainstay damage, instead the chain used to get caught up in the toothpick itself. I replaced the toothpics with a single piece of alu that I shaped to fit & bolted to both frame studs at the same time. seems to have worked.
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Old June 22nd, 2007, 12:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Can't say in the 20 years of mountainbiking I've done that's ever happened to me.
Well Georgia red clay does strange things to drivetrains when it gets gloopy.
Be glad you don't live here.
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Old June 22nd, 2007, 2:28 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Well Georgia red clay does strange things to drivetrains when it gets gloopy.
I second that over here in B-ham, AL
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