yo eddy big one inch

yoeddy36

New member
I am in dire need of a big one inch fork! time to go old school. would need it to fit a m/l frame, threadless preferrably. thanks
 
Big one inch!

Good luck man! Been looking for one under $400 for a year now. I could get a new frame for what they want on Ebay.
Cheers,

Wes
 

fat-tony

Moderator
Staff member
stupid question

Are these forks all the same size and geometry (angles and blade length) for all the different frame sizes and the only difference is the steerer tube length for a tall head tube? In other words, would a rigid fork for a XL Yo frame work on a small/medium Yo frame?
 

Yo Eddy!

Member
About 100% sure it will work on both sizes. Only take into account that there are suspension corrected type and non suspension corrected type forks. This '92 one must be for non suspension corrected frames!
 

mainlyfats

Member
Well...

Yo Eddy! said:
About 100% sure it will work on both sizes. Only take into account that there are suspension corrected type and non suspension corrected type forks. This '92 one must be for non suspension corrected frames!

This is a threaded fork for an XL bike and unless you have a ton of spacers or have it threaded further down the steerer tube, it won't work with a small frame. What you might be able to do is use it as a threadless fork on your small bike and just clamp a stem over the remaining threads once you cut it to size, but then you're into a new stem and headset.
 

Yo Eddy!

Member
From fattony's post I assumed he already understood steerers do differ

On making new threads in in a shortened steerer: I had it done multiple times. One bikeshop managed it to use a thread refresshing tool for the purpose. That was not so good action. They had to buy me a new -in this case- Miyata FatMax
 

mainlyfats

Member
We used to say...

Yo Eddy! said:
From fattony's post I assumed he already understood steerers do differ

On making new threads in in a shortened steerer: I had it done multiple times. One bikeshop managed it to use a thread refresshing tool for the purpose. That was not so good action. They had to buy me a new -in this case- Miyata FatMax

...in the bike shop that it was OK to provide SOME new threads, but not ALL new threads. If your top nut is on new threads, you need to really trust the tools and the person who did the work. In other words, bike shop cutting tools aren't always the sharpest and bike store employees aren't always the best trained in how to use them correctly and we recognized our limitations.

That, however, was in the late 80's early 90's when no bike shop - decent or not - was without a full Campy tool kit and no bike mechanic was without at least a basic understand of cutting and facing. Things have changed.

If you're really considering doing this, on a very hard to replace fork, you should probably take it to a frame builder. Or go to the oldest, wisest bike shop in the area and hand it over to their lifer.

Or go threadless. Problem solved.
 

fat-tony

Moderator
Staff member
threads

10thAnniversaryFat said:
This is a threaded fork for an XL bike and unless you have a ton of spacers or have it threaded further down the steerer tube, it won't work with a small frame. What you might be able to do is use it as a threadless fork on your small bike and just clamp a stem over the remaining threads once you cut it to size, but then you're into a new stem and headset.

I already have the stem and headset to go threadless, so I would be looking to cut that long steerer to fit my height and headtube length. How can you tell by looking at these forks whether they are for susp. corrected geometry?
 

mainlyfats

Member
I don't think it is

fat-tony said:
I already have the stem and headset to go threadless, so I would be looking to cut that long steerer to fit my height and headtube length. How can you tell by looking at these forks whether they are for susp. corrected geometry?

394mm axle to crown is old school, pre-suspension (should be 395 actually). Measure your current suspension fork to where the bottom of the headset sits. I think an 80mm travel fork is suspension corrected at 420mm and a 100mm is corrected with a 450mm length.

With that much steerer you might consider getting someone to machine you a fork crown spacer. It might look a little goofy, but that'd probably work and you wouldn't destroy the fork for the next guy.
 

fat-tony

Moderator
Staff member
Thanks for the info

10thAnniversaryFat said:
that'd probably work and you wouldn't destroy the fork for the next guy.

If I own it, there will not be a next guy. :)
 

NCAndy

New member
10thAnniversaryFat said:
394mm axle to crown is old school, pre-suspension (should be 395 actually). Measure your current suspension fork to where the bottom of the headset sits. I think an 80mm travel fork is suspension corrected at 420mm and a 100mm is corrected with a 450mm length.

With that much steerer you might consider getting someone to machine you a fork crown spacer. It might look a little goofy, but that'd probably work and you wouldn't destroy the fork for the next guy.

Actually, there were two lengths for the non-suspension forks for the Yo. I have a 1990 Yo from the either the first or one of the really early production runs. It has an axel to crown length of about 385mm (15 3/16"). It is my understanding they lengthened the distance to the 395mm because of problems with rock/sticks etc. getting stuck between the bottom of the steerer tube and the tire. I can attest that this is an issue with the early forks. Perhaps someone with more knowledge about this than me can say if they adjusted the frame jigs for this. I would guess that they did as Chris was pretty tight on things.

Just some 411 I thought I'd pass along.

Andy
 
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