Source for Wicked bottom bracket?

fat-d

New member
Hi guys,

I would like to build up my 1988 Wicked frame, but don't have the original bottom bracket. Where can I get a replacement? It would be great to find an original BB, but aftermarket would be ok too. I checked the LBS and they don't know of a source.

I searched old messages and saw someone mention that Wendyl had BB supplies, but I know folks haven't had luck getting in touch with her recently. I also saw mention of a Mavic replacement, but haven't turned up much googling. I'd like to email Wendyl (hey, it's worth a shot!)- can someone PM me her current email address?

Thanks!
 

mainlyfats

Member
If you'd like to ride this year...

fat-d said:
Hi guys,

I would like to build up my 1988 Wicked frame, but don't have the original bottom bracket. Where can I get a replacement? It would be great to find an original BB, but aftermarket would be ok too. I checked the LBS and they don't know of a source.

Thanks!

... I'd leave Wendyll out of it.

You can get a complete axle and bearing set from Phil Wood. It's quite pricey, but the bearings are SO much better than the most widely available Fat BB replacements (made in China).

Anyway - if I was starting from scratch, I'd go Phil all the way. If you have the axle, but no bearings, I can get you part #s.
 

Zook

Member
http://www.bikepro.com/products/bottom_brackets/mavic.html


This was the Mavic Bottom Bracket I've mentioned before. You would have to try to find a NOS or a Used one. as you can see from the picture it has a tapered lock rings on each side that presses into to place. If you find one call around to the older bike shops in your town, they may still have the mavic shop tool that chamers your BB shell to give you the optimium Bottom Bracket connection. But this is just one option...

edit: quick search turned up this:

http://www.firstflightbikes.com/cranks-p.htm

the Mavic BB in the last item on the list $40.

-Z
 

fat-d

New member
I'm not so keen on chamfering my BB shell, so I think I'll pursue the Phil Wood route. They confirmed I need their PW003 bearings. Anyone know what spindle length works well on a Wicked? They offer quite a few (see their PDF product sheet).

So am I correct that the bearings just get pressed in to the BB shell? I'll need some heavy duty Loctite. I've seen guys use threaded rod, washers and nuts as a bearing press, but doesn't the spindle need to be inserted in the BB shell prior to the bearings? I can't picture how to do the pressing with the spindle already in there.

Thanks for the info, guys.
 

Jack Lantern

New member
I went thru this same process a few months ago under the guidance of a few fellow Fat Cog members. I took the bearings and the frame to my LBS and they pressed them in for $6, I'm pretty sure they used a headset press but I didn't actually see them do it. Anyway, they did a great job and I then installed the BB spindle myself using a rubber mallet. It didn't require too much force and allowed me to do whatever fine tuning of my chainline with a tap here and there. That was the process for a stock BB, so I'm not entirely sure if it's the same for the Phil BB.

BTW, as I remember my stock spindle length was either 121mm or 122mm, same-same I guess. I am using an old school Cook Bros crankset which is very much a non low-pro crankarm. If you're wanting to use a newer low-pro crankarm you will certainly want a shorter spindle, somewhere around a 110mm to 113mm I should think. Hope that helps.
 
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Bssc

New member
The Mavis BB in a fat bb is not a good option they are made to have more contact than what you would get from a fat bb (smaller diameter and much thinner shell). Spindles and collars are the tuff parts to get a hold of. Try calling old long established shops that have been around for a good long time. Bearings can be of the shelf items at your local bearing supply you choose the quality you want by the price you pay. You can have the bearings grooved at any local machine shop for nominal fees. An old trick we use to do for the team to shorten the Q factor was to eliminate the outer bearing stop rings and use an aluminum spacer to prevent the bearings from shifting in wards. The outer collars would then get shave just a bit too. Wit all of these tricks you could net about 6-9 mm per side that is a major difference in Q factor. Some riders worried about spindle flex would install three bearings or four bearings. I never found much use for it myself but a few swore by this measure of protection.


To install the bearings use a 1/2 or 5/8 threaded rod (acme preferred) set one end up as a fixed end with two nuts (fix them together) and a large washer that covers the bearing. The other end will be the adjustable end with a washer and nut. Use RC 609 on the bearings where they will meet the frame. Be sure to just press the bearings in squarely and gently do not over tighten them. After the bearings are in give them a good check to make sure you have not damaged the seal or frame. Next slip the axle in with no lube or retaining compound center it as needed then install your locking collars.
 

fat-d

New member
Bssc said:
Next slip the axle in with no lube or retaining compound center it as needed then install your locking collars.
Dredging up an old thread here. Bssc, thanks for the detailed reply.

If I go with the Phil Wood BB spindle and bearings will I need some sort of locking collar with that setup? The only locking collars I've seen came on the original Fat bottom brackets.
 

kindacreeky

New member
Lock rings can go inside

I was interested in reducing the Q factor, and I bought a shorter spindle, (can't remember length) and put lock rings inside. I had trouble finding 5/8" spindle like I wanted, (or it may have been availability of bearings) so went with next bigger size in mm, I thnk it was 16mm. I filed out the lock rings and carefully fitted them to the inside of the BB. Bought new bearings from local bearing supply house. They came with the rings on them. Installed easily with large vise.

Also, I soldered a penny over the hole in the seat (or was it the down tube?) tube, inside the BB shell, and then drilled a hole in the back and bottom of the BB shell, Threaded hole and installed Zerk grease fitting. then removed seals in inside of bearings. Now give it a shot or two every 6 months and force out all dirty grease. I have had it this way for 3-4 yrs.
 

bushpig

New member
I was looking for the locking rings too and found two sources. First, there is a seller in Switzerland that sells NOS Fat lockrings. A cheaper alternative is to go with Actiontec lockrings that go for $17.95 for a pair.
 
BB singlespeed setup

I'm in the process of getting a BB pressed in my 87' Fat. I was planning on using a 113mm Phil with a pair of White Industries singlespeed cranks with a 44 toothed chainring. On White Industries website they suggest a 113mm spindle length according to measurements listed. My LBS dry fitted the cranks and the chainring looked a bit too close to the chainstay for comfort. How much play or flex is involved with a press-in bottom bracket, specifically a Phil version? The Fat press-in BB had some type of locking mech. didn't it? Any suggestions would be welcomed. :confused:
 

Bssc

New member
Somerville Chance said:
I'm in the process of getting a BB pressed in my 87' Fat. I was planning on using a 113mm Phil with a pair of White Industries singlespeed cranks with a 44 toothed chainring. On White Industries website they suggest a 113mm spindle length according to measurements listed. My LBS dry fitted the cranks and the chainring looked a bit too close to the chainstay for comfort. How much play or flex is involved with a press-in bottom bracket, specifically a Phil version? The Fat press-in BB had some type of locking mech. didn't it? Any suggestions would be welcomed. :confused:

Fats require a longer spindle than anything that is listed/ suggested due to the with of the shell and the quick bend in the chain stays ( also their larg diamater is in play too) I have the shortest spindle Fat made in mine wit a Sun tour XC expert MD and it is quite close to the frame. I'll ahve to do some measuring to see it's lenght for you.


What LBS are you going to? was it Allston by chance if so it was my tool used on your BB. I am back in a shop now for the mean time in Newton. can ask a few friends in some other shops to see what they have done.


Personally soon as my Fat is no longer considered evidence it will be going to Ted to get the seat stay fixed and fresh paint. I am seriously considering a BB ectomy on it at the same time but am on the fence as good BB square taper BB's are getting hard to find.
 
Bssc said:
Fats require a longer spindle than anything that is listed/ suggested due to the with of the shell and the quick bend in the chain stays ( also their larg diamater is in play too) I have the shortest spindle Fat made in mine wit a Sun tour XC expert MD and it is quite close to the frame. I'll ahve to do some measuring to see it's lenght for you.


What LBS are you going to? was it Allston by chance if so it was my tool used on your BB. I am back in a shop now for the mean time in Newton. can ask a few friends in some other shops to see what they have done.


Personally soon as my Fat is no longer considered evidence it will be going to Ted to get the seat stay fixed and fresh paint. I am seriously considering a BB ectomy on it at the same time but am on the fence as good BB square taper BB's are getting hard to find.

Thanks for your advise. I've actually been going to a local shop here in Somerville. What shops are you working @? I would love to know what the length of that Sun tour XC BB is. How much flex is in that Bad-Boy? Instead of that 113mm length White Industries suggests, I was considering a 118/119mm bottom bracket that a friend dug up for me. What do you think? :confused:
 
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