Here's my own preference in order
Any 1994 Titanium frame with the machined tubes (not sleeved) that I welded
Any 10th Anniversary frame (I welded all of them, I believe)
The Titanium Shock-a-billy prototype (best bike I ever rode - of course I'm not much of a rider)
My custom Yo that I sold to my now-ex brother-in-law (even though it tried to kill me)
I used a mix of Columbus, True Temper, and Tange tubing and had Paragon Machine stainless steel dropouts. I used all stainless 309L welding wire on all of the joints and made a double-chin gusset out of tubing (which became the standard after that) It had a Yo fork that also had Paragon drops and was welded with stainless - Don't know if Dan still has it or not
Enjoy
Scott
Hey KirkI've welded a lot of frames with 309L too. I really liked the way it went down.
What brought you to use it, and how did you like it?
Cheers,
KP
Hey Kirk
I had to use the 309L to join the 4130 to the GP Wilson stainless drops for the Team Comps since they were cast from 17-4 PH stainless. Did some research and found some recommendations for it for welding 4130 that would not be heat treated after welding and it made sense. I suppose the ultimate choice for a stainless filler would be ER309L Mo that has a little added molybdenum that may match even better. At the time it was impossible to source in small quantities of TIG wire so I never got to try it. Used the 309L on all the Paragon SS drops too. I like the way 309L welds but the ER80S-D2 actually flowed nicer using a pulsed current on 4130. Welds would just disappear under the paint with barely a trace of a ripple and no finish work at all.
The 309L would probably work well when you have a mixture of tubes from different manufacturers. That was another reason I used it on my custom Yo.
Regards
Scott
Hey Kirk
I had to use the 309L to join the 4130 to the GP Wilson stainless drops for the Team Comps since they were cast from 17-4 PH stainless. Did some research and found some recommendations for it for welding 4130 that would not be heat treated after welding and it made sense. I suppose the ultimate choice for a stainless filler would be ER309L Mo that has a little added molybdenum that may match even better. At the time it was impossible to source in small quantities of TIG wire so I never got to try it. Used the 309L on all the Paragon SS drops too. I like the way 309L welds but the ER80S-D2 actually flowed nicer using a pulsed current on 4130. Welds would just disappear under the paint with barely a trace of a ripple and no finish work at all.
The 309L would probably work well when you have a mixture of tubes from different manufacturers. That was another reason I used it on my custom Yo.
Regards
Scott